Kynouria through the centuries

The history of the study area is rich in events and happenings. This is explained not only by its geostrategic position (on the western coast of the Argolic Gulf), but also by the existence of the fertile plains of Tano, Vrasiatis and Dafnon on the coast.

The first traces of human presence are found with certainty at least from the Neolithic period. Rich finds of this period, as well as of the Bronze Age from the sites of Marmaralona (Xerocampos), Koutri (Upper Meligous), Agios Georgios (Meligous), Herronisi (Annexes, photo 1), Parali Island, on the road near Leonidi Beach, in Geraki, shed some light on these prehistoric years. The first inhabitants belong to the pre-Hellenic sheets, the Pelasgians, who lived here before the Arcadians in Arcadia and the (early Greek) Danaans in Argolida and on the coast of Kynouria. Then the Ionians settled in Kynouria. The creators of the Mycenaean civilization, the Achaeans, settled in Argolida around 1600 BC. Shortly afterwards they descended from there to Laconia, while Kynouria was already part of the Argive land. This is evidenced by the findings from Cheronisi, the Island of St. Andrew, Elliniko Astros, Kastraki Meligo. On the hill of Analipsi, west of the village of Vourvoura, remains of a remarkable fortified settlement (Iasos or Iasaia), which flourished in the Mycenaean period, were found. Mycenaean vaulted tombs were found at Makros (Leonidi beach), at Kotroni (Vaskina), near Paleochori. Relics of this period were also found in other areas of Parnonas (at Xirocampi, in the area of Haradros, Platanas, at Kambos Karya, at the site of Sovala Prasto).

With the descent of the Dorians, who came and occupied the land last, the degeneration of the inhabitants begins. The boundaries of the three dominions meet in the area: the Dorians of Sparta, the Arcadians of Tegea and the Dorians of Argos. A characteristic testimony is the findings at the site of Fonomenei of Ag. Peter, next to the road to Karyes, where three large stone heaps were found, which corresponded to the boundaries of the dominions of Argos, Tegea and Sparta and were ancient sanctuaries dedicated to Hermes.

In Tegea belonged the area west - northwest of Vourvoura. The Tejanian Prison of Pausanias must have been on the naturally fortified hill Kakkavouleri (20′ west of Vourvoura). Small surrounding settlements - Pigadakia, Koutroufa, Verbena - formed the Teutonic municipality of Phylacaea. And the ancient city of Karyes, which was probably located north of the present village of the same name, was originally an Arcadian city. It was occupied by the Spartans during the time of the expansionist wars (before or after the first Messenian war). The city of Karyes in historical times was famous for a peculiar cult of Artemis: in her annual festival, Karyatia, a virgin cult area was central to the city. The girls' beautiful bodies, their movements and appearance inspired the Greek sculptors with the type of karyatidas, as well as representations of dancing karyatidas or lackeys in a variety of visual artworks. The Temple of Artemis may have been on the site of the present church of Panagia north of Karyes, in the courtyard of which there are three over-aged plane trees and abundant water in the fountain.

From the end of the 11th century BC until the Roman period, Kynouria was a sought-after prey for the satisfaction of the interests of Sparta and Argos. Geographically, its area is divided into two major sections. The northern part, which in ancient times corresponded to Thyreatida, with Thyria as the main settlement and secondary settlements of Anthene, Nirida, Eve and Astros, while the southern part corresponded to the country of Prasias, in which there was the main settlement of Prasias and the secondary settlements of Polichni, Tyros and Glyppia. By the 7th century BC, Kynouria must have maintained its autonomy (as shown by the participation of the Prasias in the Amphictyony of Calauria) despite all the efforts of Argos and Sparta to annex it. However, the region of Prasias must have been more closely related to Laconia, while the region of Thyreatis was related to Argolida. (Archaeological finds in the area support this conclusion). The Argives were claiming Kynouria, trying to put a barrier to the Spartan expansion to the east. In the first half of the 8th century BC, the Spartans conquered the Achaean cities of Amyklai, Faris and Gerontrai.

Gerontres, which occupied the site of present-day Gerakion, was located on the western side of Mount Parnonas. By occupying Gerontres, the Spartans were securing their rear in their operations against the Argives. For more security they expelled the inhabitants of the city, who were Achaeans, and settled Lacedaemonian peripatetics. Those expelled found refuge, probably on the eastern side of Parnonas.

In the middle of the 7th century BC the Argives were masters of Kynouria, Kythera and the Malea Peninsula.

Sparta, however, insists on the claims of Kynouria. Characteristic of this conflict is the legendary battle of Thyreatida in 546 BC with six hundred elite (with 300 men on each side), mentioned by many ancient writers. Only three survived, so a second deadly battle followed the next day, in which the Spartans were victorious. It is most likely that the famous battle took place at Xerocampi. This is supported by the shape of the terrain, the strategic position of the area, the ancient road network (the road from Argos to Tegea and Sparta passed through here) and an epigraphic evidence from a bronze bull statue found at Xirocampi (P. Faklaris, "Ancient Kynouria" Athens 1990).

After this event the whole of Kynouria would remain in the territory of Sparta until 338 BC. During this period the Spartans settled the displaced Aeginans in Thyreatis. In 338 BC, the area of Kynouria and further south to Zaraka (where Gerontes and Marius), reverted to the Argives.

The ancient Marios occupied the place of the present-day Mari. Pausanias mentions here an ancient sanctuary common to all the gods, and around the sacred grove with springs. Marios has waters more abundant than any other place. The ancient acropolis stood on a hill to the south of the village. There are remains of a wall and shells of archaic times.

In 219 BC Prasia and Polihni were conquered by Sparta, which however did not manage to conquer Glypia, which from 338 BC until the Roman domination was an advanced outpost of Argos on the side of Sparta. The Argives must have fortified the settlement at the beginning of the 3rd century BC and helped in its development. Here, a year later, the Messenians who had been taken by surprise by Lycurgus and camped outside its walls found refuge.

This conflict between Argos and Sparta explains the existence in the region (and especially in Kynouria) of many fortified settlements (Thyrea, Anthena, Astros, Tsiorovo Dolianos, Prasias, Tyros, Polichni, Glyppia, Marios, Gerontres, Iasos), as well as several fortified towers - outposts in various topical locations, such as roads.

As for the ancient road network of the area, it could be said that until the days when advanced road building technology began to be used, several of the engravings were preserved. First of all, the coastal road from Argos to Poulithra (except for a few points that climbed above the beach), from Astros to Tripoli, and the road from Argos to Kato Doliana, which passed through Zavitsa. The latter was also the most important road of Thyreatida; following the northern slope of Zavitsa, it came out at Xylopyrgos and Tsiorovo, to continue as a carriage road to Sparta and Tegea.

The mountainous areas of Parnonas with smooth terrain were inhabited in ancient times by pastoralists during the summer period (small settlements in Xirocampi, Koutri, Ano Meligous, Leveti Prosilia, Kambos Karya, Sovala Prasto), who abandoned them in winter and went down to the valleys on the coastal strip of Kynouria or Laconia (finds in the area of Kato Verbena, in the Kosmas well, in the caves of Skylochori).

From Archaic to Roman times the area of Kynouria follows Argos and Sparta historically and culturally, but maintains some peculiarities in the way of life, cults and customs. The fact that access to some areas of Parnonas was quite difficult played a decisive role in this. This helped to preserve the identity of these areas in later years, such as the Tsakonian dialect, which is considered a corruption of Doric.

After the enslavement to the Romans, wars between the Greek states ceased. For the Peloponnese, years of economic prosperity began. During these years, the important settlement of "Eva", the most important city of Thyreatis, flourished in the Parnonas region, at least in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD.

Around the middle of the 2nd century AD, Herod built one of his most luxurious mansions in Eva and embellished the settlement with aqueducts, baths, groves, statues, etc.) was attracted here not only by the beautiful and peaceful landscape with its rich vegetation, varied game and abundant waters, but also by the fertile plain of Thyreatida, a large part of which he had to exploit.

In Byzantine times (from the 4th century AD) the Peloponnese was part of the Byzantine Empire and followed its fate. At the site of Paliostolos, north-northeast of the village of Stolos, where in the ruins of a settlement of early Christian times, a tomb inscription was found which testifies that in the 6th century the Christian religion had spread in the interior of Kynouria (P. Faklaris, "Ancient Kynouria" Athens 1990).

In the 8th century Slavic tribes appear in the region: Miligians and Ezerites, who settled in the inaccessible areas of Taygetos and Parnonas. Their periodic rebellions (from the 8th to the 10th century) were suppressed by the Byzantine army. The Miliggians left several place names, such as in Kynouria the "Melingitika huts" near Astros and "Meligou" in Agios Ioannis. These tribes converted to Christianity and slowly evolved.

During the years of the First Frankish occupation the area came under the Venetians. In order to get rid of the harassment and attacks of the Chaconians, who always remained disobedient to guard the Chaconians and the Milingos, Godefridus Villehardouin founded in 1210 a fortress in Geraki and a little later the castle of Oria in Xirocampi was built by the Franks. After the surrender of Monemvasia to the Franks (1250), which was closely besieged for more than three years, followed the subordination of the Chaconians, who had never until that time acknowledged Frankish rule. To complete the subjugation of the Peloponnese, William Villehardwin built the castle of Mistra and two others near Tainaro.

When, after the battle of Pelagonia (Western Macedonia) in 1259, Michael Palaeologus had recovered Constantinople and proclaimed himself Emperor of Byzantium, he slowly recovered the whole of the Peloponnese. The hostilities and looting, however, had not stopped. The Peloponnese was no longer prospering. At this time the Venetians did not cease to be interested in the nerve-racking parts of the peninsula. Thus, in about 1400, they conquered and settled in Astros. Later, the Duke of Athens took Astros, Leonidio and other parts of Tsakonia, which at that time included not only Geraki, but also reached under Monemvasia, as far as Vatika, as a dowry. The medieval castle of Astros beach must have existed already then, since it is mentioned in the archival documents of Venice in 1407, as well as in many maps of that period. In other maps of this period they separate the inland Astros existing in medieval times.

At that time Astros was a two-tiered village, that is, its inhabitants were forced in the summer, in order to avoid swamp fevers, to go up to Agios Ioannis and in the winter to stay in Astros.

Agios Ioannis, which before the fall of Constantinople was only a summer residence of the Astrites and was traditionally called "Apano Astros" or "Agiannis of Astros", became an independent and permanent seat of the Astrites after the Fall of Constantinople, because only there they found safety and avoided the arbitrary acts and oppressions of the Turks, who preferred the fertile lowlands and coastal areas.

Many settlements of the Parnonas region continued life both in the early Christian and medieval times, either as an extension of the already existing ancient settlements (Paralios Astros Island, Agios Andreas Island, Prasies, Glyppia, Marios, Geraki) or by moving a little in the same area (Karyes, Vourvoura, Astros etc.). Thus, there are flourishing settlements on the mountain range, mentioned in texts, such as Kastanitsa and Tzitzina in 1293; Sitina in 1435; Fuska (St. Panteleimon) in 1320 and the 'Bishopric of Reontos' from 1293 to 1429. the foundation of Prasto probably dates back to the late Middle Ages. Clear mentions of the settlement exist as early as 1435 and 1437 (Reontos of Prasto, Castanista and Leonidio).

In 1460 the Turkish troops invaded the Peloponnese and subdued it within a short time. In 1467 Kastanitsa and Prasto were still in the hands of the Venetians. The Turkish domination of Tsakonia lasted from 1540 to 1685; the Parnonas region was never inhabited by the Turks. However, it was subjected to plundering and raiding when it showed rebellious tendencies.

The Greeks of the Peloponnese never considered the Turkish conquest as definitive. Immediately after the Fall of Constantinople (1453), pockets of resistance against the Turks began to form in the region.

When the Venetian Doge of the Gallic Republic of Venice Francesco Morosini succeeded in becoming Lord of the Peloponnese after his victory against the Turks on 23 July 1687, the country was in a miserable state.

The Peloponnese was divided into four departments (Romagna, Achaia, Messinia and Laconia). Arcadia and western Kynouria (Agios Petros) belonged to the department of Romagna, which had 244 inhabited villages and a population of 71,129 inhabitants.

The Venetians kept the Peloponnese under their rule until 1715 and made sure to increase the population and intensify the various crops for better yields for their benefit.

During the years of the First Ottoman occupation and the subsequent Second Venetian occupation, the area had two important villages, Agios Petros and Prastos. In the area of Thyreatida, the most developed settlement is Agios Ioannis, which, with the surrounding monasteries of Louko, Holy Trinity, Paleopanagia, Agios Demetrios Reontinos and Agios Ioannos Theologos, created a remarkable spiritual life. At the same time, the neighbouring villages of Meligou, Platanos and Tristenas (Haradros) are in relative prosperity.

After 1715 the Turks became masters of the Peloponnese again.

In the 18th century and the first years of the 19th century, in the context of the general development of the provincial centres of the Ottoman Empire, Prashtos was in great prosperity. Many Chakones settled temporarily in Istanbul, where they maintained workshops and warehouses and imported products from their homeland.

It was densely populated and had three districts with towers, churches, aqueducts and the inhabitants lived here from Holy Week to Agios Dimitrios, while in the winter period they went down to Leonidio, Agios Andreas and the settlements of Tyrromelanos. At the end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th century Astros began to be established again. Among its benefactors, Dimitrios Karytsiotis, a wealthy merchant settled in Trieste and coming from Karitsa, founded two schools, one in the 'Koutri' place of Agios Ioannou and the second, its annex, in Astros (1805).

Life reappears in Astros during the years of the Revolution.

In the mountainous and inaccessible region of Parnonas, the monastic life flourished continuously since the Byzantine era. Its traces are evident throughout the mountain. Monasteries, monasteries, monasteries, chapels, fountains, aqueducts. In the area of the Diocese of Reontos and Prasto alone there were twelve monasteries, real castles fortified with high enclosures and towers. They were at times centres of religious life, but also of significant economic activity. Some of them were built on ancient places of worship. For example, the Monastery of Louko, built on the site of the Temple of Asclepiades the Warrior.

Witnesses of the turbulent centuries are the numerous castles and towers, medieval and Byzantine, scattered throughout the area. In addition to those already mentioned, there is the castle of Articaina near Korakovouni, the castle of Orionotas (Paliochora), the tower of the Monastery of Evangelistria (St. Andrew), the castle of Zarafona and many small towers - watchtowers.

With the beginning of the Revolution, the Parnonas region was immediately mobilized. The inhabitants of southern Kynouria organized a military corps and sent it to lay siege to Monemvasia, while the inhabitants of the north headed for the Verbena in anticipation of the attack on Tripoli. This is where the well-known battles of the Verbena and the Dolians took place. On 18 May 1821 the Turkish corps split into three parts and attacked the Greeks at Verbena, Upper Doliana and Dragouni. The victory of the Greeks at Verbena and Doliana boosted the morale of the Greek warriors.

In 1822 Agios Ioannis hosted the Government of the Rebellious Greece for 2 ½ months.

In the spring of 1823, the second National Assembly is held in Astros.

In the summer of 1825 the brothers Zafeiropoulos, seeing the danger from Ibrahim's army approaching, built a fortress on the hill (Island) of Paralios Astros, next to the medieval fortress.

In 1826 Ibrahim, enraged by his losses, occupied the province of St. Peter and burned the settlement. This fate is followed by Agios Ioannis, Meliguou and Platanos, while the inhabitants of Platanos and Sitina hid in a large cave for days and repelled all attempts by Ibrahim's Egyptians to occupy it. Once again, the caves of Parnonas, known shelters of the inhabitants of the region since ancient times, offered them sanctuary and safety.

Ibrahim's army, failing to conquer Coastal Astros and with several losses, retreats. Then Prastos and the surrounding area was burned (and abandoned for many years), while the Greek warriors led by Kapsabelis repelled the Turks at Kastanitsa.

With the liberation of Greece, Prastos and Agios Petros became the capitals of the provinces of the newly established state. Prastos, however, could not maintain its old glory. Leonidio, where many Prashtis settled, began to develop post-revolution as the local centre of the region.

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